Dum Pukht

Dum Pukht is the more refined of the two famous restaurants at the ITC Maurya, and a good counterpoint to the rustic, tandoor-centred Bukhara. It is devoted to dum cooking, an old technique in which food is slow-cooked in its own juices inside a handi, a pot sealed with dough, so that the aromas are trapped and the flavours concentrate. The method was popular in the royal kitchens of Awadh, Bengal and Hyderabad.

The restaurant is closely associated with chef Ghulam Qureshi, who has worked at ITC Maurya since 1977 and learned dum cooking from his father. The style he champions is subtle and fragrant rather than fiery, built on slow cooking, saffron, rose water, mace and other gentle aromatics. The result is a cuisine that rewards slow eating: flavours build gradually, and dishes are meant to be shared across the table rather than ordered as individual plates.

The biryani is the dish to order. Lamb is simmered with mace and ittar, a fragrant essence, then finished in a pastry-sealed handi. Kakori kebabs, finely minced meat kebabs, are the other essential order. Round out the meal with soft naan and one of the pulaos flavoured with saffron, rose water and dried fruit.

The dining room is formal in an old-world way, decorated in deep purples and golds, with polished silverware, starched tablecloths and a piano player. It suits celebrations, business dinners and couples who want an unhurried meal. Dress smartly. Note the hours: dinner is served every day, but lunch only on Sundays, which makes Sunday lunch a popular occasion. Booking ahead is advisable.

Prices are at the top end for Delhi. If you are planning to eat at both Dum Pukht and Bukhara, put a day or two between the meals; both are rich, and the contrast is easier to appreciate when you are hungry.

ITC Maurya sits in the Diplomatic Enclave in Chanakyapuri, an area of embassies and wide avenues, a short taxi ride from Connaught Place, Lodhi Garden and Khan Market. Combining dinner here with an evening drink in the hotel is an easy way to make a night of it without travelling across the city.