Kau Kee Restaurant

Kau Kee is a small noodle shop on Gough Street, on the western side of Central near Sheung Wan, that has been serving beef noodles since the 1930s. It has one of the largest followings of any eatery in Hong Kong. The American food presenter Andrew Zimmern once said that if he could have only one meal in the city, it would be here, and it holds a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide for good quality, good value cooking.

The speciality is beef brisket noodles. Different cuts of beef are served with your choice of noodles, either in a flavourful broth or with a spicy sauce. If it is your first visit, a bowl of brisket in broth is the simplest way to start, and you can try the spicier version on a return trip. The milk tea is also recommended and makes a good match for the rich beef.

The setting is basic, with shared tables and quick service, and nobody lingers. Queues often form outside, especially at lunchtime and weekends, but they move steadily. Kau Kee is open from 12.30pm to 10.30pm from Monday to Saturday and is closed on Sundays. It is cash only, so bring Hong Kong dollars. Reservations are handled by the restaurant directly, but this is essentially a walk-in place, and the room is air-conditioned, which helps after a wait in the heat.

Prices are low, and a bowl of noodles makes a quick, filling lunch or dinner. It suits solo travellers, budget travellers and anyone who wants to taste a Hong Kong food institution. Large groups may struggle to sit together. Arriving mid-afternoon on a weekday is the best way to avoid the longest wait, and it helps to know your order before you reach the front of the queue.

Gough Street is a short walk from several other places in this guide. Yardbird is a little further west in Sheung Wan, Man Mo Temple and Tai Kwun are both on nearby Hollywood Road, and Mak's Noodle and Yat Lok are a few minutes away in the centre of Central, so Kau Kee fits easily into a walking day on the western side of the district.