St Louis Cemetery No. 1

St Louis Cemetery No. 1 was founded in 1789, when New Orleans was under Spanish rule. It lies on the north side of Basin Street, about eight blocks from the Mississippi, in the block bounded by Basin, St Louis, Conti and Tremé streets, just beyond the French Quarter. It is owned by the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New Orleans and is the first of several St Louis cemeteries in the city.

The cemetery is a dense grid of above-ground tombs, many of them family vaults that have been used for generations, and walking its narrow paths shows clearly why New Orleans cemeteries are often called cities of the dead. The best-known tomb is the Glapion family crypt, believed to be the resting place of Marie Laveau, one of the best-known figures in the city's history. Homer Plessy, the man at the centre of the Plessy v. Ferguson case, is also buried here. A pyramid-shaped tomb bought by the actor Nicolas Cage in 2010 as his future resting place also attracts curious visitors.

Since March 2015 the archdiocese has closed the cemetery to independent visitors, citing vandalism. Entry is now only with a guided tour run by a company that holds access rights, or with a family pass for tomb owners. In practice this means booking a tour in advance rather than turning up at the gate. A guide also brings the place to life, explaining how the tombs work and telling the stories of the families of early New Orleans.

The cemetery suits anyone interested in history, architecture or the city's mixed French, Spanish, African and American heritage. Paths are uneven and there is little shade, so wear comfortable shoes, bring water and sunscreen in warmer months, and be respectful: do not mark tombs or leave offerings, which damages the fragile plaster. The tours are suitable for older children.

Because tour companies set their own meeting points, read your booking carefully; many groups meet nearby in the French Quarter and walk over together. The cemetery is a short walk from the French Quarter, so it combines easily with a morning in the old town. Photography of the tombs is generally part of the experience, but follow your guide's instructions.