Holy Cross Cathedral

Holy Cross Cathedral is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Lagos and one of the oldest large churches on Lagos Island. Catholic missionaries had been active in Lagos since the nineteenth century, and a first pro-cathedral on the site was inaugurated in 1881. By the 1930s it was too small for the growing congregation and was demolished. Bishop Francis O'Rourke laid the foundation stone of the present building on 6 August 1934, and it was completed in 1939, when Lagos was still an apostolic vicariate.

The church was raised to cathedral status in 1950, the year the vicariate became the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Lagos on 18 April. The building was designed by Lazarus Borges da Silva and Francisco Nobre in a French Gothic style, and it is now a Lagos State Grade 3 listed building. Its architects' Portuguese names reflect the Afro-Brazilian community that helped shape the architecture of old Lagos Island.

The cathedral remains an active parish church, and the most rewarding way to experience it is to attend Mass, when the building is full and the choir is singing. Outside service times you may be able to look inside if the doors are open; dress modestly, keep noise to a minimum and be discreet with photography. A visit takes about 30 minutes, longer if you stay for a service. Check service times locally, as they can change for feast days and special occasions.

Holy Cross is one of the stops on the heritage walks that Legacy 1995 leads from Freedom Park through the colonial quarter of Lagos Island, together with City Hall, old government buildings and Independence House. Joining a walk is a good way to understand the cathedral in the context of the streets around it, as many of the historic buildings nearby are unmarked. It suits visitors with an interest in church history, architecture and the colonial and Brazilian heritage of Lagos.

The cathedral is in the old centre of Lagos Island, so it is easy to combine with Tafawa Balewa Square, Freedom Park and the Onikan museums. Lagos Island is congested on weekdays, so use a ride-hailing car and allow time for traffic, or come on a Sunday morning when the streets are quieter.