Ramesseum

The Ramesseum is the memorial temple of Ramesses II, built in the 13th century BC on the West Bank opposite Luxor. Much of it is in ruins, but that is part of its appeal: it is usually quiet, and the scattered columns, broken statues and surviving walls give a sense of how vast these royal temples were when they were complete.

Its most famous feature is the fallen colossus of the king, a gigantic statue that now lies in pieces. Its cartouche and shattered form inspired Percy Bysshe Shelley's poem "Ozymandias", with its lines about a vast and trunkless ruin in the desert. Standing beside the fragments, you can still make out the scale of the original figure.

The walls of the pylons and courtyards carry scenes from the Battle of Kadesh, the great clash between Ramesses II and the Hittites that the king celebrated on monuments across Egypt. Inside, part of the hypostyle hall still has its ceiling, painted with gold stars on a blue background, and the sanctuary area preserves astronomical scenes. Look also at the head of another seated statue of the king; its partner, known as the Younger Memnon, was removed in 1818 and is now in the British Museum.

Around the temple stand the remains of mud-brick storerooms and granaries. Some of their barrel vaults still stand and are among the oldest surviving true arches in Egypt, which makes this a good stop for anyone interested in ancient building techniques as well as royal propaganda.

Allow about an hour. There is little shade and the ground is uneven, so wear sturdy shoes and bring water. The temple suits visitors who enjoy wandering at their own pace, and it is a good contrast to the crowded valleys. It lies on the edge of the cultivation close to the Tombs of the Nobles and a short drive from the Colossi of Memnon and Medinet Habu, so it is easy to add to a West Bank day. Because it sees fewer coach groups than the big names, it is also a good place to take your time with a guide and ask questions without competing for space in front of the reliefs.

Be aware that a joint project between Egypt's Supreme Council of Antiquities and Korean heritage specialists is dismantling and restoring the temple's pylon, with work planned through 2027 and a temporary protective shelter over the gateway, so part of the entrance area may look different from older photographs.