Attraction
Karnak Temple Complex
The vast temple complex of Amun-Re on Luxor's East Bank, built and rebuilt by around thirty pharaohs and famous for its forest-like Great Hypostyle Hall.
Ramesses III's fortified mortuary temple on the West Bank, with deep-cut reliefs, surviving original colour and scenes of battles against the Sea Peoples.
Good to know
Medinet Habu is the mortuary temple of Ramesses III, and for many visitors it is the most rewarding temple on the West Bank. It is usually far calmer than the Valley of the Kings or Deir el-Bahari, yet the preservation is remarkable: some scenes still carry their original colours, and more than 7,000 square metres of walls are covered in decorated reliefs.
You enter through the Migdol gate, a fortified gatehouse that leads into a precinct of about 210 by 300 metres. The main temple, around 150 metres long, closely follows the plan of the nearby Ramesseum, built by Ramesses II, whom Ramesses III admired. The outer walls are the place to look for history: the reliefs on the northern wall show the king's campaign against the Sea Peoples, including the Battle of the Delta.
The complex holds much more than the main temple. The Small Temple of Amun, older than Ramesses III's building, was restored by Hatshepsut and completed by Thutmose III. Close by are the Chapels of the Divine Adoratrices, built between the eighth and sixth centuries BC for the priestesses of Amun; two of the original four survive. In later centuries the site became the Coptic town of Djeme, and traces of that settlement remain around the temple.
Since 1924 the Epigraphic Survey of the University of Chicago's Oriental Institute has been recording the reliefs and inscriptions here, and much of what is known about the site comes from their work. Allow about one and a half to two hours to do the site justice. The deep-cut reliefs look their best in low morning or afternoon light, and the quieter atmosphere makes this a good choice for photographers and for families who want space to explore.
Medinet Habu lies at the southern end of the West Bank monuments, a short drive from the Colossi of Memnon. Several small cafés and guesthouses face the temple, so it is an easy place to pause for a drink, and it pairs well with the Valley of the Queens and Deir el-Medina nearby. If you are building your own West Bank route, starting here and working north towards the Valley of the Kings keeps the busiest site for later in the morning, when coach groups have moved on.
The main temple is the mortuary temple of Ramesses III, though the site also contains earlier and later buildings.
It has deep-cut reliefs with surviving original colour and more than 7,000 square metres of decorated walls.
They are on the northern wall of the main temple and include the Battle of the Delta.
It is usually much quieter than the Valley of the Kings or the Temple of Hatshepsut.
About one and a half to two hours.
The Small Temple of Amun and two surviving Chapels of the Divine Adoratrices.
The Colossi of Memnon, the Valley of the Queens and Deir el-Medina are all close by on the West Bank.
Hotel
A palace-style West Bank retreat of domes, courtyards and antiques set in ten hectares of palm groves and gardens, and a member of Relais & Châteaux.
Thing to do
The 2.7-kilometre ancient processional road lined with sphinxes that links Luxor Temple with Karnak, excavated and reopened in 2021 as a walking route.
Bar
An evening sound and light show inside Karnak Temple, telling the story of Thebes and its pharaohs with lighting and narration in several languages.
Tour operator
A licensed Luxor balloon company offering sunrise flights from the West Bank over the temples, the Nile and the Valley of the Kings, with hotel pickup…