Via San Gregorio Armeno

Via San Gregorio Armeno is a short, steep lane linking Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali, the two main streets of the old town. It follows one of the narrow cross streets of the ancient Greek city, and it led towards the agora, where the basilica of San Paolo Maggiore stands today. In ancient times a temple of Ceres stood on the street, and citizens left small terracotta figures there as offerings; some see a link between those votive figures and the craft that made the street famous.

Today it is known around the world for its presepi, the elaborate Neapolitan nativity scenes. The tradition of building them in Naples took off in the 18th century, and the street's workshops still make figures and settings all year round. Beside shepherds, angels and the Holy Family you find whole miniature villages with working fountains, market stalls of tiny food, taverns and street sellers, many of them made by hand. Craftsmen also produce figures of footballers, politicians, singers and other people in the news, so browsing the latest caricatures is part of the fun.

Halfway along is the church of San Gregorio Armeno, founded around 930 over the remains of the temple and dedicated to the saint in 1205. Its bell tower arches over the street, and the cloister of the convent, with its own entrance, is a peaceful garden. Opening times for the church and cloister are limited, so check locally if you want to see them.

The street is busiest from early November to 6 January, when the nativity season is at its height and the lane can become so crowded that you move at walking pace. Visit in the morning, or outside the Christmas season, for a calmer experience. Allow 30 minutes to an hour, more if you plan to shop. Prices vary widely, from small souvenirs to expensive handcrafted pieces, so ask before you pick things up and be careful with bags in the narrow space. Pickpockets can work the crowds at peak times.

The street is in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Napoli Sotterranea on Piazza San Gaetano, the Duomo and Cappella Sansevero. Some of the city's best-known pizzerias are on nearby Via dei Tribunali, and Dante station on metro Line 1 is around ten minutes away.