Café
Krinos
A self-service sweet shop on Aiolou Street, open since 1923, known for soft loukoumades with honey, cinnamon and walnuts, bougatsa and soft-serve ice cream.
A three-level specialty coffee house in a neoclassical building in Thissio, roasting in-house and serving award-winning espresso, cold brew and baked treats.
Good to know
The Underdog is one of the best-known specialty coffee shops in Athens, set in a neoclassical building on Iraklidon Street in Thissio, a few minutes from the Ancient Agora. Look for the red door: behind it, the café spreads over three levels, with an industrial-style inner courtyard that makes a calm retreat from the busy street outside.
Coffee is roasted in-house, and the team of baristas has won awards, so the quality is consistently high. Expect a choice of single-origin espressos and seasonal filter coffees, alongside summer favourites such as iced flat white, espresso tonic and cold brew. Coffee beans are also sold to take home. Food includes freshly baked banana bread and chocolate babka, and the café has traditionally offered snacks, lunch and weekend brunch, while the bar serves craft beers and drinks later in the day.
The Underdog suits coffee enthusiasts, remote workers looking for a comfortable seat and anyone exploring the western side of the archaeological park. The courtyard is pleasant on warm days, and the multiple levels mean it is usually possible to find a table, though weekend brunch is busy. It is a good place for a slower coffee than the takeaway counters of the centre, and the staff are happy to explain the coffees on offer.
Visit in the morning before heading into the Ancient Agora, or in the afternoon after a walk on Philopappos Hill. With its bar, it also works as an early evening stop. Opening hours are not published on an official website, so check before making a special trip.
The café is a few minutes' walk from Thissio metro station on Line 1, which is one stop from Monastiraki. From here, the Ancient Agora's western entrance, the Temple of Hephaestus, the Monastiraki Flea Market and the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art are all within easy walking distance, and Psirri's bars are just across Ermou Street. It was already listed among the leading specialty coffee shops of Athens in a 2016 guide to coffee tourism in the city, which praised its stylish multi-level space and open inner terrace. Seasonal filter coffees change through the year, so it is worth asking what has just arrived.
Yes, coffee is roasted in-house.
Single-origin espresso, filter coffee, iced flat white, espresso tonic and cold brew.
Yes, including freshly baked banana bread and chocolate babka; brunch has also been served at weekends.
At 8 Iraklidon Street in Thissio, behind a red door.
There is an inner courtyard.
Yes, coffee is sold to take home.
Walk a few minutes from Thissio metro station on Line 1.
Attraction
The rocky citadel above Athens crowned by the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Propylaea and Temple of Athena Nike, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
Tour operator
An Athens-based experience company running small-group city, food, mythology, street art and nightlife tours, plus day trips across Greece.
Thing to do
The Evzones of the Presidential Guard change watch every hour in front of Parliament, with a full ceremonial parade and band on Sundays at 11:00.
Restaurant
Two-Michelin-star restaurant on the fifth floor of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, serving a single creative tasting menu built on its own garden produce.