Café
Krinos
A self-service sweet shop on Aiolou Street, open since 1923, known for soft loukoumades with honey, cinnamon and walnuts, bougatsa and soft-serve ice cream.
A family pie shop on Voulis Street baking since 1910, famous for its tyropita kourou, small half-moon feta pies with a rich buttery crust.
Good to know
Ariston has been baking pies on Voulis Street since 1910 and is still run by the founding family, which makes it one of the oldest bakeries of its kind in central Athens. The name means the best, and generations of Athenians have queued at its counter for a warm pie on the way to work. When the old Parliament building stood nearby, politicians were among its regular customers, buying pies for breakfast or lunch.
The best seller is the tyropita kourou, a small half-moon pie filled with feta and wrapped in a thick, butter-based crust that is crumbly rather than flaky. It is quite different from the filo cheese pies sold across the city and worth trying for that reason. The display also holds spanakopita and a changing selection of seasonal pies, which the official city guide lists as including courgette, leek, banana and sour cherry, so there is something sweet as well as savoury. Dough is rolled by hand every day.
This is a takeaway shop with no seating, so plan to eat on the move or on a bench nearby. Popular pies can sell out, especially the cheese ones in the late morning, so the earlier you come the better the choice. Prices are low, making it ideal for budget travellers and anyone wanting an authentic Athenian breakfast before a morning of sightseeing. It is also a useful stop for families, as children usually like the simple cheese pies.
Opening hours are not published online, so aim for the morning and early afternoon, when the counter is fullest. Expect a queue at peak times, though it moves quickly. If you have dietary requirements, ask about fillings before you order, as the pies are made in the traditional way with butter, cheese and wheat flour.
Voulis Street runs between Syntagma and Monastiraki, a couple of minutes' walk from Syntagma metro station. Several other pie and coffee shops line the same street, including the regional pie specialist Fillo opposite, so it is easy to put together a casual breakfast crawl. From here, Ermou Street, Agias Irinis Square and Plaka are all within a few minutes on foot.
In 1910, and it is still run by the founding family.
The tyropita kourou, a small half-moon feta pie with a thick buttery crust.
Yes, including spanakopita and seasonal pies such as courgette, leek, banana and sour cherry.
No, it is a takeaway shop.
In the morning for the best choice, as popular pies can sell out.
No, the pies are inexpensive.
At 10 Voulis Street, a couple of minutes from Syntagma metro station.
Attraction
The rocky citadel above Athens crowned by the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Propylaea and Temple of Athena Nike, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
Tour operator
An Athens-based experience company running small-group city, food, mythology, street art and nightlife tours, plus day trips across Greece.
Thing to do
The Evzones of the Presidential Guard change watch every hour in front of Parliament, with a full ceremonial parade and band on Sundays at 11:00.
Restaurant
Two-Michelin-star restaurant on the fifth floor of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, serving a single creative tasting menu built on its own garden produce.