Krinos

Krinos is one of the oldest sweet shops in central Athens and a reliable stop for anyone wanting to try loukoumades, the small Greek doughnuts, in a setting that has hardly changed in decades. It opened in 1923 as a traditional coffee house on Aiolou Street, in the old commercial heart of the city, and its name means lily in Greek. The official city guide describes it simply as a historic sweet shop that specialises in loukoumades.

Part of the appeal is the room itself. The floors are old marble mosaic, the tables are topped with marble, and the service is self-service: you take a tray, order at the counter and carry your plate to a table. The effect is pleasantly retro, closer to a 1980s Athens patisserie than a modern café, and it attracts a steady mix of older locals, office workers and visitors.

The loukoumades here are soft and rich, made with a hole in the middle, and served the classic way with honey, cinnamon and coarsely ground walnuts. Beyond them, the menu runs from bougatsa, the semolina custard wrapped in filo that many Greeks eat for breakfast, to soft-serve ice cream, so it works at any time of day. A portion of loukoumades is generous and easily shared between two, especially if you add something else from the counter.

Krinos suits families, budget travellers and anyone with a sweet tooth. It is a quick stop rather than a place to linger for hours, and it makes a good break on a walk between the central market, Monastiraki and Syntagma. Loukoumades are best eaten as soon as they are fried and dressed, so eat at a table rather than carrying them away if you can. Opening hours are not published online, so it is best to visit during the day and early evening.

The shop is a few minutes' walk from Monastiraki and Panepistimio metro stations and close to the Varvakios Central Market. Agias Irinis Square, with its cafés and the Church of Agia Irini, is a short stroll down Aiolou Street, and Ermou Street's shops are just beyond. Compare its traditional style with the modern loukoumades of Lukumades nearby for a sweet tasting of your own.