Varvakios Central Market

The Varvakios Agora, the central food market of Athens, is the place to see the city feeding itself. It fills a large block between Athinas, Sofokleous, Evripidou and Aiolou Streets, and it has been trading since 1884. Plans began in 1876, when vendors were still selling from shacks around the Roman Agora, and the project was paid for by the benefactor and caviar merchant Ioannis Varvakis, whose name the market carries. The glass roof and basements were added in 1886.

In the centre is the fish market, a great hall of marble counters where fishmongers shout prices over boxes of sea bream, red mullet, grouper, hake and octopus, much of it from the Aegean islands. Around it are the meat aisles, where butchers sell everything from whole lambs to offal, dry-aged beef, goat and game. Across Athinas Street the fruit and vegetable stalls spill onto the pavement, and the blocks around the market are packed with shops selling nuts, dried fruit, spices, cheeses, olives, eggs and honey.

The market is also a place to eat. Small, old-fashioned canteens serve the traders: Epirus is known for patsas, a tripe soup eaten with vinegar and chilli flakes, while Karayiannis is a spot for ouzo and meze. At Aris, a grill on the Sofokleous side, you can buy fish in the market and have it cooked for a token fee if you order a couple of dishes. By the main entrance on Athinas Street, Mokka roasts coffee and brews it the traditional way on hot sand.

Come in the morning, when the market is at its busiest and the produce is freshest. It is closed on Sundays, and the official tourism site lists opening hours of 08:00 to 18:00, though individual traders keep their own times. The fish hall floor is wet, so wear sensible shoes, and if you are squeamish, be ready for the meat aisles. Fish is sold by the kilo and the fishmongers will clean it for you.

The market is a short walk from both Omonia and Monastiraki metro stations, along Athinas Street. It pairs naturally with a food tour or a walk along neighbouring Evripidou Street, which the official city guide calls the food tube of Athens.