Thing to do
Monastiraki Flea Market
The old-town market district around Monastiraki Square and Avissinias Square, where antique dealers, junk stalls and souvenir shops crowd the streets below the Acropolis.
The Evzones of the Presidential Guard change watch every hour in front of Parliament, with a full ceremonial parade and band on Sundays at 11:00.
Good to know
The changing of the guard in front of the Hellenic Parliament is one of the most memorable free spectacles in Athens. Two Evzones, soldiers of the elite Presidential Guard, stand watch day and night at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the war memorial set into the terrace below the Parliament building on Syntagma Square. Every hour, on the hour, the guards are relieved in a slow, precise ceremony of high-stepping marches, synchronised movements and long, still pauses.
The memorial itself was unveiled on Greek Independence Day in 1932. Designed by the architect Emmanuel Lazaridis and sculpted by Fokion Rok, it shows a fallen hoplite soldier in relief, and the walls around it are inscribed with the names of battles fought by Greek forces, from the Balkan Wars and the First World War on one side to the Second World War and later conflicts on the other. The Parliament above occupies the former Royal Palace, built between 1836 and 1843, which has housed the legislature since 1934. The building is not open to visitors.
The Evzones' traditional ceremonial uniform is part of the attraction, and their slow, exaggerated steps are designed to be seen from a distance. The most elaborate version is on Sunday at 11:00, when the whole guard marches to the memorial with a military band, so arrive at least 20 minutes early if you want a spot near the front, as crowds build quickly.
There is no ticket and no booking. Stand on the pavement or the terrace steps facing the memorial rather than in front of the guards, and keep a respectful distance; the soldiers are on duty and should not be touched or obstructed. Photography is allowed. It suits all ages, and children are usually fascinated by the marching. Allow around 15 minutes for an ordinary change and longer for the Sunday parade.
Syntagma metro station, where Lines 2 and 3 meet and which has a direct metro link to the airport on Line 3, lies directly beneath the square, so this is an easy first stop on a day in the centre. From here, walk into the National Garden next door, down Ermou Street towards Monastiraki, or through Plaka to the Acropolis.
Every hour, on the hour, day and night.
On Sunday at 11:00, when the whole Presidential Guard marches to the memorial with a military band.
Yes, there is no ticket or booking.
Soldiers of the Presidential Guard, an elite unit known for its traditional ceremonial uniform.
On Greek Independence Day in 1932.
No, the Parliament building is not open to the public.
Syntagma metro station, on Lines 2 and 3, is directly beneath the square.
At least 20 minutes before 11:00 to find a good viewing spot.
Attraction
The rocky citadel above Athens crowned by the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Propylaea and Temple of Athena Nike, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
Tour operator
An Athens-based experience company running small-group city, food, mythology, street art and nightlife tours, plus day trips across Greece.
Restaurant
Two-Michelin-star restaurant on the fifth floor of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, serving a single creative tasting menu built on its own garden produce.
Hotel
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