Gelateria Nico

Gelateria Nico is a Venetian institution on the Zattere, the long, sunny promenade along the southern edge of Dorsoduro, and it has been serving gelato and coffee since 1937. Its origins go back to Giovanni Causin, known as Nico, who opened a bar here with his wife Emma. Today it is a favourite of Venetian families on a Sunday stroll as much as of visitors, and it is one of the classic places to sit by the water in the city.

The speciality is the gianduiotto, a thick slice of gianduia, the Piedmontese chocolate and hazelnut mixture, drowned in a glass of whipped cream. It is rich, simple and has been on the menu for generations, and it is the one thing most people come here to try. Alongside it there is a full range of gelato flavours, plus coffee, drinks and other ice cream desserts, so it works equally well for a quick cone or a longer sit-down treat.

The real draw is the setting. Nico has a terrace over the Giudecca Canal, with a broad view across the water to the Giudecca and Palladio's church of the Redentore, and the passing traffic of vaporetti, barges and cruise boats makes it endlessly watchable. Late afternoon and early evening, when the Zattere catches the sun, are the best times to sit outside.

Opening hours change with the seasons. In summer the gelateria opens daily from early morning until late evening, while in winter it has shorter hours and a weekly closing day, so check the website for current times. Expect queues on warm weekends, but service is quick. Prices at the counter are moderate; table service on the terrace costs more.

Nico suits families, couples and anyone looking for a break after visiting the museums of Dorsoduro. Children love it, and it is an easy, relaxed stop on a walk along the waterfront. Allow 15 minutes for a cone, or 30 to 45 minutes to sit on the terrace.

The gelateria is beside the Zattere vaporetto stop, served by lines that cross to the Giudecca. The Gallerie dell'Accademia is about five minutes' walk away, and the waterfront leads east towards the Punta della Dogana and Santa Maria della Salute.