Bodega Casa Montaña

Bodega Casa Montaña is one of the oldest taverns in Valencia and the best place to start an evening in the Cabanyal, the old fishermen's quarter by the sea. It opened in 1836 as a grocery supplying oil, wine and spirits to local residents and sailors, and it still has the feel of an old bodega, with wine barrels and a front bar where locals stop for a drink.

Today it is a tapas restaurant and wine bar run with real care. The menu changes with the seasons and leans on the sea and the huerta, with local, seasonal and often organic produce and native vegetable varieties. Expect classic Valencian and Spanish tapas and simple seafood and vegetable dishes, prepared without fuss. The wine list is the other attraction, with around 600 references from Spain and abroad and a special focus on Valencian producers. In 2023 the International Wine Challenge named it Spain's best wine bar.

The atmosphere is relaxed and busy. It is wise to book a table for dinner, especially at weekends. The kitchen serves lunch from about 12:30 to 16:00 and dinner from 19:30 until midnight, and it is closed on Sunday evenings. Expect to spend a moderate amount for a selection of tapas and a bottle of wine; ask the staff for recommendations, as they know the list well and are happy to suggest local wines by the glass.

Casa Montaña suits couples, small groups and anyone interested in wine. It is less suited to very young children late in the evening, when the bar is crowded. Vegetarians will find enough to eat among the vegetable dishes, but the menu is not built around them. Wines by the glass make it easy to try several local bottles in one visit.

The tavern is in the heart of the Cabanyal, a grid of streets known for its colourful tiled house fronts. Metro line 6 and buses 19 and 92 serve the area, and the beach is about five minutes' walk away. Before or after eating, walk through the Cabanyal to look at the façades, visit the Cabanyal market in the morning, or head to the seafront promenade at sunset.