Barrio del Carmen

El Carmen is one of the six historic neighbourhoods of Ciutat Vella, Valencia's old town, and the one with the most character. Its narrow streets developed between the city's Islamic and later Christian walls, and the two great surviving gates of the Christian wall, the Torres de Serranos and the Torres de Quart, mark its edges. Walking here is the best way to understand how the old city fits together, and it costs nothing.

Start at the Torres de Serranos and wander south and west. The Portal de Valldigna, an arch in the old Islamic wall, once led into the Moorish quarter created after the Christian conquest. The Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània occupies a former convent with Gothic and Renaissance cloisters and hosts free exhibitions. The church of the Escuelas Pías has an 18th-century dome covered in tens of thousands of glazed tiles. On Calle del Museo, look for the tiny Casa de los Gatos, a little house built for cats, with a plaque recording the 1957 flood.

El Carmen is also Valencia's street art district. Murals by local and international artists cover walls and shutters throughout the area, especially around the IVAM and on Calle de Moret, sometimes called the street of colours. The art changes often, so every visit is a little different. Small squares give the walk its rhythm: the Plaza del Tossal is the centre of nightlife, the Plaza del Negrito fills with people having drinks from mid-afternoon, and the Plaza del Carmen is quieter, with a neighbourhood feel.

The area changes with the time of day. In the morning it is calm and good for photographs and museum visits; from late afternoon the terraces fill up, and at night the bars around the Tossal are busy with a young crowd until late. If you are staying here, choose a room away from the busiest squares if you are a light sleeper. Keep an eye on bags in crowded spots at night, as in any city centre.

Allow two to three hours for a relaxed walk, or combine El Carmen with the IVAM, the Central Market and La Lonja for a full day. The Mercado de Tapinería, a small market of local design and food stalls, is on the southern edge. Visit Valencia publishes a suggested walking route through the historic centre with shaded stretches and water fountains, which is useful in summer.