La Venencia

La Venencia is one of the most atmospheric bars in Madrid, a narrow, dimly lit room on Calle de Echegaray that seems untouched by the passing decades. It serves only one thing: sherry. The name comes from the venencia, the long-handled cup used to draw sherry from the cask in the bodegas of Jerez.

The drinks list runs through the main styles of sherry from Andalusia. Locals tend to order the dry styles, fino or manzanilla, which are crisp and refreshing, and there are richer amontillado, oloroso and sweeter styles for those who want to explore. Drinks are poured from the barrel or bottle into small glasses, and a few simple tapas are available to go with them. Prices are low by central Madrid standards.

The bar keeps its traditions. Your tab is chalked on the wooden bar in front of you and settled when you leave. An old sign asks customers not to take photographs or to spit on the floor, and staff do enforce the no-photo rule, so keep your phone in your pocket. Tips are not accepted. These customs are part of the appeal, and the result is a bar where people talk to each other rather than look at screens. If you are new to sherry, the staff can suggest a style to start with, and trying two or three different glasses side by side is the best way to learn.

La Venencia opens at lunchtime and again in the evening, until late. It gets crowded, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights, when the small room fills quickly. Early evening on a weekday is the best time for a quieter visit. It suits curious drinkers, couples and anyone who wants to experience a piece of old Madrid; it is not really a place for children or for large groups who want to sit together.

Calle de Echegaray is one of the busiest streets for bars in the Barrio de las Letras, running south from Carrera de San Jerónimo. Sevilla and Sol metro stations are both within five to ten minutes' walk. Salmón Guru is a little further down the same street for a cocktail afterwards, and the Plaza de Santa Ana is just round the corner.