Demel

Demel has been making cakes and confectionery in Vienna since 1786, and its title of k.u.k. Hofzuckerbäcker, purveyor of sweets to the imperial and royal court, still appears above the door. The shop and café stand on the Kohlmarkt, the elegant street of luxury boutiques that leads from the Graben to the Michaelerplatz entrance of the Hofburg, so the imperial household never had far to send for its desserts.

Inside, a long counter displays the day's cakes and tortes, and the café rooms behind and above it are panelled, mirrored and decorated in a style that has changed little over the decades. The custom is to look at the cakes at the counter and choose before taking your seat. Demel's range covers Austrian classics and its own creations, from chocolate tortes and cream slices to strudels and seasonal specialities. Kaiserschmarrn, the fluffy torn pancake served with plum compote, is served throughout the day and is a good choice if you want something warm. The shop at the front sells boxed chocolates, candied fruit and other confectionery, and its window displays, often elaborate sugar and marzipan creations, are worth a look even if you do not go in.

Demel is a favourite with visitors and can be busy, particularly in the afternoon and at weekends. It does not accept reservations, so you may need to queue. Arriving soon after it opens at 10:00 is the best way to find a table quickly. The café is open daily from 10:00 to 19:00.

It suits anyone with a sweet tooth and an interest in the traditions of imperial Vienna, from couples to families with children. It also makes a pleasant break during a morning at the Hofburg, the Spanish Riding School or the Imperial Apartments, all a couple of minutes away. Compare its chocolate cake with the one at Café Sacher if you want to judge the city's most famous rivalry for yourself.

The Kohlmarkt is a pedestrian street in the heart of the old town. The nearest underground stations are Herrengasse on the U3 and Stephansplatz on the U1 and U3, and the Graben and St. Stephen's Cathedral are about five minutes' walk away.