Thing to do
Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Nairobi Nursery Visit
A one-hour daily visit to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust's elephant nursery, where orphaned calves come in for their midday milk feed and mud bath.
A ridge walk along the four peaks of the Ngong Hills south-west of Nairobi, with views over the Great Rift Valley on one side and the city on the other.
Good to know
The Ngong Hills rise along the south-western horizon of Nairobi, a ridge of peaks that reaches about 2,460 metres above sea level. Their name is an anglicised version of a Maasai phrase meaning rhinoceros spring, and the outline of the four summits will be familiar to anyone who has seen the film Out of Africa, where they appear in the background of many scenes. Walking the ridge is one of the most popular day hikes from the city.
A trail follows the tops of the hills from peak to peak. On one side the land drops steeply towards the floor of the Great Rift Valley, and on the other you look back over the suburbs of Karen and Ngong towards Nairobi and the plains of the national park. The wind turbines of the Ngong Hills Wind Power Station, completed in 2015 as Kenya's first wind farm, line part of the ridge and make a striking sight close up.
There is history here too. On the eastern slopes, overlooking Nairobi National Park, lies the grave of Denys Finch Hatton, the aviator and hunter whose relationship with Karen Blixen is central to Out of Africa. It is marked by an obelisk set in a small garden.
The Kenya Forest Service runs a post at the north-eastern foot of the hills, where hikers pay an entry fee and can hire guides and security rangers. Taking a ranger is a sensible choice, especially for small groups, and is the norm for many visitors. The full ridge walk is a long and exposed day out with several steep climbs and descents, so it suits reasonably fit walkers rather than young children. Many people walk only part of the ridge and return the same way, or arrange a driver to collect them at the far end.
Start early, as it gets hot and windy on the tops by midday and cloud can build in the afternoon, especially in the rainy seasons. Bring plenty of water, snacks, sun protection, a windproof layer and sturdy shoes with good grip. The hills are in Kajiado County, beyond the town of Ngong, roughly an hour's drive from central Nairobi depending on traffic. Most visitors go by car or with a guided hiking group, and the Karen restaurants and cafés are on the way back for a well-earned lunch.
The highest point is about 2,460 metres above sea level.
The Kenya Forest Service offers paid guides and security rangers at its post at the north-eastern foot of the hills, and taking one is sensible.
Yes. The Kenya Forest Service charges a fee at its post at the start of the trail.
The full ridge is a long, exposed walk with steep sections, so it suits reasonably fit walkers.
The Great Rift Valley on one side and Nairobi, Karen and the national park plains on the other.
On the eastern slopes overlooking Nairobi National Park, marked by an obelisk and a small garden.
Early in the morning, before the midday heat and wind and any afternoon cloud.
Plenty of water, snacks, sun protection, a windproof layer and sturdy shoes with good grip.
Restaurant
Nairobi's famous meat restaurant on Lang'ata Road, open since 1980, where waiters carve meats roasted on Maasai swords at your table until you lower your flag.
Hotel
A 1932 manor house in Lang'ata with just 12 rooms, famous for the Rothschild's giraffes that put their heads through the windows at breakfast.
Attraction
Kenya's first national park, created in 1946, where lions, black rhinos and giraffes roam open grassland within sight of the Nairobi skyline.
Tour operator
One of Kenya's oldest tour companies, founded in the 1950s and based in Nairobi, running scheduled and tailor-made safaris with a fleet of more than 200…